We visited “pigeon square”, as we call it, the center of old, downtown Sarajevo, and got to eat burek. We hadn’t had burek in four years so we ordered all four kinds: meat, potato, spinach, and cheese. Actually, we ordered a fifth (squash), but they were out. We walked around and saw the sights, smelled the smells (onions, cigarette smoke) and bought a few souvenirs (a magnet for Pam’s collection to replace the one that broke; handmade slippers). It was nice to be able to speak the language again and understand what was going on.